My Patek Philippe

Posted By HARRIS A S on January 18, 2012

The Classic vintage Rolex Day-Date of the 50′s

This is the first series Rolex Day-Date, which energized Rolex to outperform other competitors.

From whichever angle, we see the watch, its amazing beauty is difficult to fault. It could be perceived, Rolex meant business, when introducing the Day-Date to the world. No stone was left unturned, to produce this classic Rolex Day-Date. It made quite a sensation, world-wide. Especially, it was designed and produced to outdo the fantastic and evergreen Omega Constellation, one of the most popular watches, then.

During the 50′s, most of the watches were equipped with only the ‘date’ and if they had a ‘day’, it was not spelled in full. We can safely say, Rolex actually introduced the first most functional watch, incorporating a magnified ‘date-window’ and the ‘day’, spelled in full. It is a Rolex flag-ship model and till today, the Rolex Day-Date is produced albeit with subtle changes.

This flag-ship model is produced only in 18k solid gold, yellow, white and pink. Only later, they also produced ones in three color gold, as well as, in platinum.

The beauty of the first series Rolex Day-Date is still a classic, wherever it goes. Love, care and commercial art were given top priority, when it was on the drawing-board. In my opinion, the later Rolex Day-Date watches are beautiful too but the first series production is second to none. It will remain a classic, for generations to come.

I am sure the the 50′s Omega Constellation and also, the 50′s Rolex Day-Date are highly desirable collectors’ must have pieces. It is just impossible to duplicate the classic beauty of these two watches, today.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on December 31, 2011

Rarity of pink or red gold watches

When we explore the vintage-watch market, we will discover there are not many good and genuine vintage-watches, available. Watches which are genuine with no added aftermarket (non-factory) parts, are relatively rare today. Vintage-watches with non-original parts are commonly known as a franken. Apart from frankenwatches, we also find there are many fakes, waiting to be picked by those who are new to vintage-watch collecting. Sometimes those seasoned collectors can be duped into buying a franken or a fake which is extremely difficult to tell or detect.

Always ask questions, when you discover two similar watches, one is cheaper than the other. Most likely, the cheaper one is either a franken or a fake. To restore a franken, back to its original status, is not only time-consuming but very expensive too. In the long run, it becomes much cheaper, buying a vintage-watch that is genuine and as close as possible to factory-original specifications, especially brands like Rolex, Omega, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, etc. Do not be, penny-wise and pound foolish. If it is too good to be true, the answer is, it is not true and it is as simple as that. Always, consult a friend who is a collector or a reputable dealer, before getting your fingers burned.

Amongst the limited number of genuine vintage-watches, seen on the market, most of them come in 18k yellow gold. Out of this number, hardly 1% come in 18k solid pink or red gold. Years ago, pink or red gold watches were not popular and as a result of which, the watch-houses in Switzerland produced very many gold watches in solid yellow gold only.

For instance, Rolex discontinued producing pink or red gold watches in 1975, since the demand for such watches was weak. When the population of the pink and yellow gold became scarce, collectors began hunting for them. As a result of which, it is just quite impossible to get a genuine Rolex, in either pink or yellow gold. When Rolex discovered people were hunting around for this discontinued gold color, they once again stared producing pink and red gold watches, from the year 2 000, onwards. Generally, those people in mainland China believe the color red, brings good luck. However, those new watches that come in this color are not cheap, whether it is a Rolex, Omega or Patek Philippe, amongst others.

Today, the price of vintage Rolex watches, in either pink or red gold, surpasses the price of those in yellow gold, all denominators being equal, a few times over, if one can find them in excellent factory-original condition. It is not so easy to get one, in virtually mint or unmolested condition, since in those good old days, people bought Rolex watches, whether in yellow, pink or red gold, to wear and not just keep them in their drawers, waiting for them to become vintage time-pieces. However, there are still excellent condition ones but most of them are already in the hands of avid watch-collectors.

People usually do not sell these heirloom items but do so once in a while because they want to upgrade or because it is a forced sale, requiring funds for another project.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on November 27, 2011

Patek Philippe and the ‘Geneva Seal’

Today I was introduced to a vintage-watch collector, who owns several collectible Patek Philippe and pink gold Rolex Day-Date watches. He is a very knowledgeable person, far better than my knowledge about vintage-watches, especially regarding Patek Philippe.

Only today, I come to know of such a thing called ‘Geneva Seal’. (I have loved Patek Philippe watches, all along but not aware of this criteria.) This seal is given to watches, with an extremely high-grade movement and according to this gentleman-collector, most of the ‘Geneva Seal’ is given to Patek Philippe watches (not all, but the majority of them or approximately 99.99% of them!). Apart from Patek Philippe, some Audemars Piguet, Jaeger Le Coultre and also, Vacheron & Constantin have been awarded with this highly invaluable glory. Rolex have never been presented, with any.

Virtually all Rolex watches are awarded the ‘Chronometer’ title and to qualify for this title, a watch has to be adjusted to 3 positions, at least. However, all Rolex watches are adjusted to 5 positions (more for accuracy than quality and beauty of movement), whereas to qualify for a ‘Geneva Seal’ a watch movement has to be adjusted to 8 positions (5 for accuracy, just like Rolex’s) and 3 (for heat, cold and isochronism). Even with 8 adjustments, there is no guarantee, a watch will be awarded with the ‘Geneva Seal’.

He gave me these websites to read, so as to understand the underlying quality of a highly respectable watch that qualifies for a coveted ‘Geneva Seal’:

http://www.patek.com/patek-philippe.html?pageId=4010&backgroundId=2&lang=en&

http://www.timezone.com/library/itsabouttime/itsabout631674732705524456

http://horologyzone.com/watch/watch-school/geneva-seal.html

http://thewatchery.blogspot.com/2008/09/what-is-geneva-seal.html

Please see attachments below, to understand better.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on November 5, 2011

Rolex Day-Date/President vintage

I have always been attracted to the beauty of the Rolex Day-Date, the flag-ship amongst Rolex watches. Since a very young age, this passion is still alive in me.

The first Rolex Day-Date was introduced in 1956 and it caused a massive interest, amongst those Singaporeans who, at one time believed, a good and reliable watch had to be a Rolex and nothing else. The name Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet were unheard of. Those with not so much money to throw around would buy, either an Omega or a Longines.

Then I was only an eleven year-old boy and I used to cut many of the advertisements, found in magazines and newspapers. I pasted the pictures in a jotter-book. I told myself, one day I would want to own at least one, Rolex Day-Date, since it is not only an attractive watch but practical at the same time. The date is magnified and the day of the week is written in full.

All Rolex Day-Date/President come in 18K solid yellow gold, white gold, pink gold (of different intensity or strength, sometimes referred to as deep rich yellow), and platinum. Some while ago, a small number was made in stainless-steel, presumably ordered by an extremely special client of Rolex Geneva. If one can find any on the market, very likely there is some big money to be spent, in order to own it.

In 1962, when I was in my first year in a secondary school, I had my first close encounter with the Rolex DD. From a distance I could see, my history teacher, Mr R A Tiwary wore one, always hidden under his long sleeve-shirt. Each time, he wrote or dusted off the black-board, the watch would be exposed. He would then use his handkerchief to dust off the fine chalk particles that landed on his watch, worn with a crocodile band.

Long after I left school and started work, I happened to meet my ex-teacher and he was still wearing his Rolex DD. In the course of our conversation, I posed him the question, as to whether he would one day, sell his faithful watch and get another. (I think, I would be the first person to buy it.) The answer was short and abrupt, no.

Over the years, I began collecting used watches of all brand-names, as long as they appear attractive to my eyes. I can still remember, some time in 1965, I bought my first Rolex DD, new. I purchased it from one of the Authorized Dealers. As always, I prefer to wear a watch with a non-metal band and the watch came with a crocodile band. A few days, after wearing the watch, I reckoned the time-keeping was below my expectation and I brought it to Rolex Service Center, for it to be regulated. Upon inspection of the watch, they discovered, the AD gave me a gold-filled Rolex buckle. They called for the certificate and receipt, to ascertain where I got the watch from. After regulating the watch, RSC replaced the buckle with an 18k solid gold one.

Amongst my great collection of watches, the population of the Rolex DD was the greatest, followed by Omega, Longines, Patek Philippe and also, other lesser-known brand-names.

Till today, my love for the Rolex DD is still strong, especially for my old age, when I need to know the date of the month and the day of the week, at a glance. Though it is not much of a collectible Rolex time-piece, relative to the Submariners and Sea-Dwellers or other sports watches, I think the Rolex DD stands out, when taking into account the beauty of its craftsmanship, as my most favorite wrist-watch. Nothing can change my mind, I am afraid.

Since 1956 till today, the Rolex DD has become a legendary Rolex time-piece. Over the years, it has undergone some subtle changes. Whatever, I still love those of the first and second series, since for me, I think most of the new watches of whatever brand-name, though beautiful to look at, are soul-less. In terms of beauty and quality, yet reasonably priced, nothing can beat watches, produced from the 40′s to the 70′s, I reckon. I would rather, admire a few vintage watches than own many contemporary ones.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on October 20, 2011

Rolex Crocodile Gents Wallet reference 5604.03

In 1976 Rolex Geneva co-sponsored a charity event, a ballet festival (la Compagnie de Danse de la Principauté de Monaco) at Monaco, in the presence of Prince Rainier III de Monaco and Princess Grace Kelly.

All the VIPs invited to this event were offered a rare and seldom seen gift.

The gentlemen were presented with this extremely rare crocodile wallet (model reference 5604.03) and the ladies were offered a bottle of perfume ‘Perpetually Yours’ (created by the Firmenich Company).

When closed, the wallet measures 9.5cm X 12cm and 9.5cm X 24cm, when opened. There is one central pocket for bills and four pockets for credit cards or other papers. Also, there is one pocket with a buttoned-cover, for coins or anything else.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on October 11, 2011

Rolex Day-Date with factory diamond dial and Rolex factory diamond bezel

The Rolex Day-Date or sometimes called the Rolex President is the flag-ship of all the Rolex watches, though it is not that highly collectible, when compared to some of the other Rolex watches. However, it is the most practical watch, for daily wear, since it shows the day spelled in full, and also the date, magnified. Just to say, it is the most under-rated classic, amongst Rolex watches.

The beauty of the Day-Date or President can be enhanced with a diamond dial and also, a diamond bezel. However, do make sure the diamond dial and bezel are both Rolex factory-originals. Otherwise, Rolex Service Center will not service anything, added to the watch, that is after-market.

A factory-original Rolex bezel is mighty expensive, while that of the aftermarket can be bought, cheaply. The quality of the diamonds used by Rolex, usually bluish-white in color, is virtually perfect and the setting is just impeccable.

One way to test the bezel to ascertain, as to whether it is factory-original against one that is aftermarket, without physically detaching the bezel from the watch-case, is to wipe or clean it hard, with a piece of cloth. The factory-original one will not ‘bite’ the cloth, while one which is aftermarket, usually will.

These two watches come with a Rolex factory-original dial and also, a Rolex factory-original diamond bezel. The quality of the diamond and that of the setting, shows. One can be assured, if diamonds or other precious stones are added on the bezel or case of the Rolex Day-Date or President, it will be executed tastefully, by the Rolex factory.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on August 26, 2011

A Divers Watch is a Tool Watch

A divers watch is born as a tool watch, meant for deep-sea diving or salvage-work in the deep ocean. However, only a few of the production watches were ever actually used for the purpose, they were intended to.

Today, there is a very large number of people who collect vintage divers watches, produced in the 50′s, 60′s and early 70′s. They were built like a tank and is meant to last many a life-time, if they are regularly maintained and oiled, once every four or five years. Most of the divers watches are masculine-looking and oozing with everlasting beauty.

Since vintage divers watches are so popular as a collector’s item, today there are many re-editions or re-issues of the original versions. Strangely despite this, not only collectors but also there are so many people who prefer to wear the original issues, rather than the homage ones.

While many collectors hunt around for a divers watch that is as mint a condition, as possible, there is a handful of vintage divers watch collectors who go for watches that had actually been used to explore the deep-sea. These watches have lots of stories to tell and needless to say, they are bruised and battered all over. It is a unique characteristic that can only be achieved, through experience.

Surprising or not, there are not many people, who own these bruised and battered timepieces, will want to part with them, for all the money in this world.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on July 6, 2011

The attraction of vintage divers watches: Submariner and Sea-Dweller

Indeed, the attraction of vintage divers watches of the 60′s, especially those with a massive diameter, is gathering momentum, day by day, amongst the younger generations and collectors.

There are many Swiss watch manufacturers that produced very attractive and evergreen divers watches and amongst them are Rolex, Longines, Certina, Girard Perregaux, Jaeger Le Coultre and Universal, etc. Though the Japanese have also produced excellent divers watches, the re-sale value of their watches falls below one’s expectations. Needless to say, the greatest producer of sports/divers watches is without doubt, Rolex which commands an excellent re-sale value.

There are several friends of mine, who collect vintage Rolex divers/sports watches, namely Submariner and Sea-Dweller.

Out of curiosity, I asked them to let me know, which of the divers watches they consider to be the most beautiful and attractive Rolex sports/divers watch.

Out of the 20 collectors I spoke to, 5 said the Submariner model ref 1680, while 12 said Sea-Dweller model ref 1665, while the remaining 3 said, both the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller with an acrylic plexi are indeed very attractive.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller model ref 1665 is the first Rolex watch with an imprinted ‘statement’ on the outside of its back-cover. Indeed, it looks attractive and informative.

Unfortunately, all of them are of the opinion the newer Submariner and Sea-Dweller watches that come with a sapphire crystal do not turn them on, for some strange reason.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on June 26, 2011

Certina diver watch

Diver watches are always popular, since generally they are massive, chunky and built like a tank, relative to dress watches. Precisely, the diver watches are masculine-looking.

Amongst diver watches, the Rolex Submariners and Sea-Dwellers are the most popular and they command an extremely high re-sale value. For instance the Submariner Red and the Sea-Dweller Double Red are very expensive, since they are much desired by collectors.

Those intending to buy and wear or even keep a good divers watch, there are still some other established brand-names, which are relatively cheap and indeed tremendously attractive.

For instance, diver watches by Universal Polerouter and Certina DS-2 and DS-3 are within means of those who want a budget-price diver watch that will last many life-times over. They have excellent re-sale value, too. Apart from these two brand-names the Longines vintage diver watch is also in great demand and the good and rare examples command a respectable price, today. Unfortunately, the re-issue or re-edition for most diver watches do not have much of a following, in the used market.

For a wearer/collector, the price of a Certina diver, which is massive and chunky, is only a fraction of that of a Rolex price. Most of the great Certina diver watches are value for money and it can be considered to be an under-rated quality diver watch in the market. The supply of the good examples is slowly drying up, unfortunately.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on June 21, 2011

Rare and beautiful seldom seen vintage-watches

Currently, I come across four very rare watches being listed for sale on the market, by an established and respected vintage-watch gallery, located in Brazil.

The four watches listed are not only rare but in tremendous condition, taking into account their age. There is no doubt, these watches will be a dream come true, for some of the serious collectors of vintage-watches.

Not only collectors but also, young and up-coming professionals and executives may want to own and wear a time-piece, so as to look different and stand-out amongst the crowd. This cannot happen, if one wears a contemporary watch. On top of this, the quality of the classic watches have been proven to last and last, virtually forever, if they are well maintained and serviced. Arguably, there is no guarantee a modern watch will keep its value, relative to those rare vintage timepieces.

Without a shade of doubt, the three watches can be considered master-pieces, in their own right. In view of their rarity and their high desirability amongst avid vintage-watch collectors, they do not come cheap but it is money worth spending. Generally, the value of these watches will appreciate, over a period of time, unlike the new ones.

The four rare time-pieces are:

A A Longines vintage divers with a diameter of 42mm, excluding its winding-crown, circa 1960

B A Tissot 33.3 with an Omega movement and military dial, circa 1935

C An Omega Chronograph 33.3 black military dial circa 1939

D A vintage Omega Pilot 1938 The Genuine Pilot Watch

It is hard to imagine, how these watches can still be found in this top condition. They must have been loved and pampered, throughout their life-time. Otherwise, they would be gone, by now.

(Pictures: Courtesy of Ara Gallery, Brazil)

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