My Patek Philippe

Posted By HARRIS A S on March 9, 2010

The beauty of joining NAWCC and other vintage-watch collecting bodies.

I was hungry for materials, pertaining to wrist-watches and there was none around in my hometown. Then I tried to locate for them from overseas but to no avail. Eventually, I decided to become a member of The Antiquarian Horological Society, as well as, National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors.

Apparently, I am unable to find any materials from The Antiquarian Horological Society but only my membership card, stipulating that I was a member with this body in 1985. Very likely, the contents of whatever they sent me did not satisfy my hunger.

I cannot remember the duration I was with NAWCC but I have managed to find my membership card, stating that I was at least a member from 1984 – 1985. Periodically, I received NAWCC bulletin and also the MART catalogue. I discovered the materials did not cover my interest and that is wrist-watches. Virtually all articles and advertisements were about pocket-watches. I tried to learn on how to fall in love with these fabulous machines but I failed, miserably.

The contents of MART were tremendously helpful, since without one, I would not have discovered that the US is the first place in the world, where its people have woken up to appreciate the beauty and potential of watch-collecting.

I then wrote to some of the dealers in the US and judging from the catalogues sent me, they already had plenty of pocket-watches and were beginning to look around for wrist-watches of established brand-names.

I have scanned some of the materials which I have managed to discover and hopefully, they would be of interest to some of the respectable readers of this blog.

I had to wait for two weeks for anything to come from the US and if I were to place an order, it will be two weeks before they receive my it. For them to send anything to me, it will take approximately another two weeks. There was no alternative for a speedier transaction and to have anything to do with the surface mail (by boat), it would take ages.

Just imagine the convenience of the internet today, compared to years ago. Virtually, everything is done on-line, unlike yesterday when even the catalogues I received were relatively sub-standard compared to what we have today.

With the advent of the internet, we can kiss good-bye to the way we had to correspond with others, ‘a few years ago’. However, watches of ‘a few years ago’ are here to stay and they will undoubtedly be with us, forever.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on March 8, 2010

Previous owner scrapped the 18k solid gold case

Lately, I have seen several vintage watches, being auctioned for their dial and movement only, minus the case. During the good old days when there were only a few watch-lovers and dealers, it was a common sight to see a pocket or wrist-watch without a case. After smelting the solid gold contents, the goldsmiths would usually just throw away the movement and dial. However, sometimes they were picked up watchmakers who keep them as spares.

Surprisingly, the same ugly scenario is still taking place today, despite we now have more people who are looking into buying vintage-watches. Compared to the environment of today, the market for second-hand watches was virtually non-existence, then.

While going through some auction outlets, I discovered an Omega Melbourne Olympic, solid 18k gold watch was being listed without its case. It is rather surprising, since this is a rare and sought-after vintage-watch.

At least, we have to thank the seller for trying to save the dial and movement of this rare watch. Hopefully, this item will eventually find its way to a good home, placed amongst a collector’s collections and be kept as an incomplete collector’s piece – waiting to be restored to its original glory.

It is hoped, the new owner will make an attempt to get in touch with Omega Switzerland to find out, whether or not they can factory-reproduce a case to accommodate the movement and dial of this Melbourne Olympics collector’s timepiece. There is nothing like trying.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on March 3, 2010

Aged dial against reconditioned/refinished dial.

In view of the increasing number of people indulge in vintage-watch collecting, there is a great number of watches to be picked on the market.

Apart from the usual dealers, prospective-buyers can also get some nice pieces from the numerous auction houses. There are some houses that will auction only the top-end watches, while others may list just anything, from the good, the bad to the ugly, in the eyes of collectors.

In view of the great choice, those new-comers to the world of vintage-watch collecting should be wary of what they pick up. The worse drama will be, buying a fake for the price of a genuine piece. Another scenario which is not as bad is, picking up a watch with a reconditioned or refinished dial, even though the basic dial is factory-original.

There is nothing wrong in picking up a watch with a redone dial, as long as, the work was undertaken at the birth-place of the watch, since usually the original stencil is still kept by the factory.

Very few watches, once purchased for daily use, will be found in pristine condition today, dial-wise. The top-end watches, for instance Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Gerald Genta, ect, will generally be found as close as possible to mint condition since, over the years they were rarely worn. Rarely do we get an Omega, Longines or Rolex in show-room condition, unless those belonging to the top of the range model.

Collectors may have to pay top dollars for an immaculate condition ‘work-horse’ watches. Owners will usually demand an unreasonable price, achievable only in seven years’ time, while a prospective buyer would usually want to pay a yesteryear’s price . As a result of this, there are potential sellers who prefer to put an aged dial under the knife, rather than selling it, as is.

The following is just an example as to why, most of the time, it is not advisable to buy a watch with a reconditioned/refinished/redone dial.

Red sticker
The Longines Conquest Calendar Power-reserve with a red sticker has been reconditioned or refinished and when comparing it to those watches with a white or one with a blue sticker, definitely the one with the black dial appears to be very attractive. Unfortunately, the original characteristic of the dial, where a substantial amount of the total value of the whole watch lies, is totally lost. A new-comer to watch-collecting may find it difficult to detect.

White sticker
The Longines Conquest Calendar Power-reserve with a white sticker is very close to above excellent condition, bearing in mind, when it was born into this world, this model was meant to be a ‘work-horse’ and not vaulted up. It has experienced wear and tear, caused by the number of hours it was on the owner’s wrist. After 50 years or so, for it to be in this tidy condition is rather rare.

Blue sticker
The Longines Conquest Calendar Power-reserve with a blue sticker is something a new-comer to watch-collecting will not want to even glance twice. However, one who is an experienced vintage-watch collector would find it definitely more desirable to wear or keep, compared to the one with the red sticker.

Since we now have all the three watches lined up for us to compare and contrast, it is imperative that one has to do some homework before buying into a watch, which is seldom seen or considered a rare time-piece, with a reconditioned or refinished dial. Very likely, the one with the white sticker and also, that with the blue will be admired by collectors, while the one with the red sticker will never find its way strapped onto a watch-collector’s wrist or vaulted up in a safe.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on March 1, 2010

The beauty of a white gold-capped vintage wrist-watch.

Most collectors love vintage-watches, whether they come in nickel-plating over a cheap material, stainless-steel, gold-capped or solid gold (yellow, white or pink), while not forgetting platinum.

All collectors will want to own a vintage-watch that is rare and better still if it is in pristine condition. Needless to say, such a watch will come at a price, today. Apart from this, the availability of spare parts is also a criteria to be considered. It is always wise to collect vintage-watches, produced by established brand-names, since spares may be readily available, back home in Switzerland or from the numerous specialist stockists in Europe and the US.

Even though some very competent watchmakers, with the correct tools, can reproduce parts which are no longer available but do make sure the watch you own has a high demand, amongst collectors. Avoid over-spending on a spare for a watch with not much collector’s desirability, unless that particular watch is of great sentimental value to you or you have the extra funds to throw around and not worrying whether or not, your investment is recoverable. There are not many of such a person around today, unfortunately.

Though not good, it is not that bad to lose a spanking brand new current model watch compared to losing a vintage piece, since if you had the money, it is easy to get a replacement, the next day or two. However, to get robbed or way-laid while wearing a rare vintage-watch, the scar will remain during the victim’s life-time. It will be many years, provided one is still alive after the robbery or mayhem, before another similar one may appear on the market. Over the years while waiting for one, there will be a big price gap, if and when something similar appears.

I know of several vintage-watch collectors who have tried wearing a brand new current model watch but after some while, they experienced the feeling of ‘nakedness’, however expensive the price of the new watch may be.

Usually robbers go after gold watches – solid gold or even gold-capped, since the gold content is easily disposable, while a stainless-steel watch does not attract this mob. Seldom do collectors like to wear a stainless-steel watch, since generally is not as rare as the gold ones, except for a Patek Philippe or an Audemars Piguet in stainless-steel which is definitely, rarer than the gold ones.

In order not to attract unwanted glances and ‘admiration’ from dubious elements, alternatively a few collectors prefer to put on their wrist a white gold-capped watch, since not only it is rare but also, it does not attract the attention of the bad and the ugly, while walking alone in rough or non-familiar environment. Unfortunately, there are not many white gold-capped watches around compared to the yellow or pink gold ones. Like what I pointed out in my much earlier posting, this variation was not popular during the good old days, thus resulting in its premature demise, since many cannot tell the difference between a watch in stainless-steel against another in white gold. The same can be said about a platinum watch too, though its price is through the roof and not many can afford to own one.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on February 27, 2010

Longines Conquest with date, without ‘Calendar’ on dial.

As far as my knowledge goes, from the 1960 onwards a Longines Conquest with date does not come with the imprint ‘Date’ or ‘Calendar’ on its dial, as enjoyed by the previous model.

The date-window for this new version sits on and not away (Longines Conquest ‘Calendar’) from the minute track, either at 3 or 12 o’clock.

The minute track is made up of only 4 segments instead 12 as found in the previous Conquest with a date range. Though not as chunky and solid-looking as the Longines Conquest ‘Calendar’, the later version is still a beauty in its own right, since it still retains its diamond-cut mirror dial. Whatever, the beauty of yesteryear timepieces are now sought after not only by collectors and but also, young executives who want to look different.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on February 27, 2010

Longines Conquest Calendar 18k solid gold with a classic dial.

Though I do not own one today, I still think the Longines Conquest Calendar of the 50’s is one of the most beautifully crafted watches, the Swiss have ever produced. Some while ago, I was privileged to sell a 1959 example in totally mint condition for a friend of mine and the watch was listed on eBay.

One of the questions asked by an interested party was, how could I claim the watch to be totally factory- original and in mint condition while the imprints of ‘Conquest Calendar’ were not centered but grossly out of alignment. He claimed ‘Conquest’ should sit squarely on top of ‘Calendar’. Being a gentleman who might have always encountered such a watch with a reconditioned or refinished dial, void of the original charm and characteristics, he asked me, not to insert his question and also, my answer on the listing page. However, I did so with no intention of challenging him but to share the knowledge that the imprint of those two words are never designed to be one on top of the other. Very likely, he was happy and did not come back to me. Despite my little exposure to Longines watches, I am willing to share whatever little knowledge with others.

This Longines Conquest Calendar has an 18k solid gold dial, crowned with a diamond-cut mirror minute track, also in 18k solid gold. It goes without saying all the three hands, date-window frame, as well as, the Longines logo are also in 18k solid gold. Very likely, the beautifully crafted winding-crown is also in 18k solid gold and if not, at least gold-capped.

The most stunning part of the watch is the dial with its diamond-cut minute track and there are twelve separate segments and each piece represents 5 minutes. These 18k solid gold segments are hand-rivet onto the dial and where these pieces touch each other, they are virtually seamless. I have yet to see another watch with this intricate style of art-work on its minute track. In order not to break this carefully created arrangement the date-window frame, though at 3 o’clock, is set away from the blunt arrow-head diamond-cut hour marker. The whole set-up is indeed two stages beyond exotic.

The whole concept is contained in a beefy and chunky-cased watch full of character, provided the dial is totally factory-original and remains untouched, after leaving the Longines factories. However, if it has been refinished or reconditioned all the outstanding characteristics and features will be lost forever, as seen in an illustration of another example where the dial has undergone cosmetic surgery. It is rather sad and sickening too, to say the least. It is always best to avoid anything with a redone dial, however attractive it may appear. The beauty is only superficial.

This Longines Conquest Calendar was especially created to rival the equally gorgeous dial of the Omega Constellation of the 50’s. You be the judge.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on February 26, 2010

Omega date and Longines date but dial says ‘CALENDAR’??

As we all know the first wrist-watch introduced was one with a mechanical winding and then came the semi-automatic winding (bumper automatic), followed by the full-swing winding rotor.

If I am not wrong here, the first watch with the date of the month at the 3 o’clock index was introduced by Rolex, some time in 1945. This particular watch was named Rolex Datejust. Possibly amongst others, then came the Omega with date and also, the Longines with date. Ironically, the initial models of Omega and Longines showing the date in a window were called ‘Omega Seamaster Calendar’ and ‘Omega Constellation Calendar’ while the Longines named theirs ‘Longines Conquest Calendar’. Best of all, a Patek Philippe watch says nothing at all on its dial, whether it comes with a date, a perpetual calendar or even, an automatic movement.

Till today, Rolex still maintains the word ‘Datejust’ for their watch with a date, while one showing the day of the week, as well, is named ‘Day-date’. A short while after the introduction of their ‘calendar’ models, Omega and Longines discarded the word ‘Calendar’ from their dials for virtually all of their subsequent models but never made any attempt to put the word ‘date’ on their dials.

Strange or not, I cannot understand the rationale of putting the word ‘Calendar’ for a watch with a date, since day, date and month = calendar. Was it deliberately done or was it an oversight by Omega and Longines, some while ago? I have been hunting for an answer from some of the watch forums but to no avail. Whatever, very likely collectors may one day decide to include these ‘Calendar’ Omega and ‘Calendar’ Longines watches in their collections.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on February 21, 2010

Rarity vs metal content of a vintage-watch in the eyes of a collector.

From the established watch houses of Switzerland, we have been privileged to be presented with very fine watches produced in platinum, solid gold (yellow, white or pink gold), gold-capping (yellow, pink or white, though only a handful) and also, stainless-steel.

Very few watches come with a platinum case, since the price of one is exorbitant, while those in yellow gold and stainless-steel were produced in a large number, in view of their relatively cheap price and popularity. Those that come in a solid yellow gold case, yellow gold capping and stainless-steel were well-received by the market. As such a great number of this was produced to meet the demand, while those produced in solid pink or white gold, pink or white gold-capping were produced in small quantity and production ceased, after some while.

Generally, a vintage stainless-steel watch is cheaper than a similar model in solid yellow gold. However, this assumption cannot be applied to some of the complicated Rolex and Patek Philippe watches in solid white gold or stainless-steel. Exclusive to Patek Philippe only, even the the simple non-complicated ones are far more expensive, if found in solid white gold or stainless. It is not surprising, if the value of a stainless-steel Patek Philippe surpasses another, of the same model in platinum. A knowledgeable collector pays for rarity rather than the metal content of a watch. To a new-comer in the game of vintage-watch collecting, this consideration is looked upon as, two stages beyond reality, though real only yesterday, when I was in Singapore in the 70’s. Then, I was ridiculed and looked upon as a clown or a junk-yard man.

Some while ago, consumers bought a watch to wear but today those watches, that have managed to survive till today, are termed as vintage-watches. Unlike consumers who go after current models, vintage-watch collectors pick up watches which are considered a rarity and the value of any vintage-watch is based just on that – rarity. Of course, the originality of the watch is also taken into , before a value is placed. As long as demand exceeds supply, a good vintage-watch will appreciate much better than many other investments. Unlike furniture or motor-car, you can put your investment on your wrist or just lock it up in a vault and see it appreciating in value, over a period of just a few years or maybe even in a matter of months, again depending on supply and demand. A simple rule of the thumb is to pick up something that is as close as possible to its original factory specs.

In the same tone, for a similar model and all denominators are equal, a solid pink gold watch or solid white gold watch is more expensive than one in solid yellow gold. The same can be applied to ones in pink gold-capping, while anything with white-gold capping is as rare as a hen’s teeth, just like a Patek Philippe in stainless-steel (complicate or otherwise), is not easily seen today and most of them are in the vaults of collectors, world-wide.

Strangely, I cannot tell the difference whether a watch-case is in platinum, solid white gold or white-gold capping. To me, they all look alike, since if there is any difference, it is only subtle. However, the same cannot be said of vintage-watch collectors with many years of experience behind them, since they can already smell the difference from some distance away.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on February 20, 2010

Avoid being cheated into buying a fake or Franken vintage-watch.

Several years ago, there were not many watch-collectors who could impart knowledge to budding collectors and as a result of which, many were tricked into buying fakes, thinking they were genuine pieces. Today, there are many collectors and also, vintage-watch books for us to refer to and it is a shame, if one is still being cheated.

Surprisingly, there are still people who are being duped into buying fake watches at a genuine vintage-watch price. One word of advice is: those with a shallow knowledge about vintage-watches should join watch forums where there are plenty of helpful watch-lovers who are willing to give genuine advice. Many of these forum members will pounce at the slightest chance to give advice to new members. Over the years, I am more at ease asking forum members rather than some unscrupulous dealers with vested interest. However, generally forum members are bound by rules and regulations and they are not allowed to give the estimated value of a watch, since opinions differ and apart from the fact, the value of a vintage-watch is governed by supply and demand.

The illustrations show two Omega Seamaster watches, one is genuine while another is a fake. Study carefully the signature and other imprints, as well as, the logo. If one is careful, there are many tell-tale signs to suggest that a fake is fake or a Franken is a Franken, however well the camouflage may be.

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Posted By HARRIS A S on February 16, 2010

First Omega Seamaster Calendar (date) in 18k solid pink gold.

After I have ‘lost’ virtually all my better watches, I now peruse auction catalogues from established auction houses, eBay and Google to look for similar time-pieces which I once owned.

If I do come across anything like what I once had, I would get in touch with friends, begging them to buy. Of course, the asking price today is many times over what I paid, several years ago. I am confident that prices will appreciate, since we now have more vintage-watch collectors coming into the market. I reckon vintage-watch investment is better than investing money in stocks and shares, since vintage-watch investment cannot be manipulated by unscrupulous elements. Its actual market-price is genuinely reflected by supply and demand.

Recently, a long-time guest of mine wanted to sell me an 18k solid pink gold first calendar (date) watch, introduced by Omega in the late 40’s. It is called Omega Seamaster Calendar. Of course, I must be an be an idiot if I were to compare his asking price against what I paid many years ago.

I did a little research, looking through past auction catalogues and their results, as well as, eBay but to no avail. I then visited Google and clicked ‘Seamaster caliber 353′ and lo and behold, I managed to find a similar watch on page 16. It was auctioned by Antiquorum in Geneva, Saturday 14 and Sunday April 15, 2007.

This is the description:

“SEAMASTER CALENDAR”Omega, “Seamaster, Automatic, …

“SEAMASTER CALENDAR”Omega, “Seamaster, Automatic, Calendar”, No. 12527686, case No. 11082116, Ref. OT 2627. Sold in 1953. Fine, center seconds, self-winding, water-resistant, 18K pink gold gentleman`s wristwatch with a cream “honeycomb” dial”, date and an 18K pink gold Omega buckle. This watch is sold with a box, Certificate of Authenticity and 2-year Omega guarantee. Property of an Asian Collector
C. Three-body, solid, polished, curved lugs. D. Cream “honeycomb” with faceted pink gold dart indexes and Arabic quarters, outer minute/seconds division, date aperture. M. Cal. 353, copper-colored, 17 jewels, straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance, shock absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, bumper rotor. Diam. 35 mm. Thickness 11.5 mm.
Lot Estimates
1,000 CHF – 1,500 CHF
600 EUR – 1,000 EUR
800 USD – 1,200 USD
lot 112
Geneva, Saturday 14 & Sunday April 15, 2007
Sunday, April 15
Sold including buyer’s premium: 3,840 CHF

The first Omega with a date, the 18k solid pink gold Omega Seamaster Calendar (date) was sold at the auction for 3 840 CHF, approximately 250% above its estimates of between 1 000 and 1 500 CHF.

Based on the above results, what my long-time guest is asking for his watch, though appears exorbitant, I think it is reasonable, since he has already owned the watch for so many years. Of course, not many would agree with me. The many would be talking about paying only its market-price. There is no market-price for something that is rare. Its price is determined by supply and demand, just that. If I do not pick up at his price, at the moment there is none around for sale and it will be a long while before one appears. Generally, a better watch will double its value, every seven years but same may not not be likely with stocks and shares.

As always, it is not easy for me to get a friend to buy this very important watch at the seller’s current asking price. Come year 2017 or 2018, there will be many looking into buying this watch albeit at the price offered today. How short-sighted can we all be?

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