A vintage military watch has a strong appeal and is very collectible but do study the case carefully, before picking up one. Make sure, you are able to tell the difference between one in solid stainless-steel and another in chromium-plated. Also, there is a difference between a military watch and a military-style watch. Apparently, the description ‘military-watch’ is loosely used in the market, today. Many of them are far from being one.

The stainless-steel ones, even after they had been run over by army trucks many times over, will still look good, while those chromium-plated version, while there is nothing wrong with owning one, will surely look tired when the plating starts to peel off or pitting occurs. Do not despair if this happens, since it can be re-plated but it is not going to be a cheap exercise, unless you are able to do it yourself.

It is understandable, most of the military watches on the market is not in the best of condition, in view of the task a soldier was expected to perform while having the watch on his wrist. All those WWW (Watch, Wrist, Waterproof) military watches were produced to be used as a utility in the war, so do not expect any of those soldiers, in a battle-field, to carry a piece of chamois and also, a cake of soap to clean the watch daily. They had to look after their own safety, rather than that of the watch, strapped to their wrist.

Those watches that managed to survive the war, though not in top condition but original, are sought-after by collectors, today. It is observed amongst those brand-names, the price of an IWC Mark X military watch has gone through the roof, while generally IWC military watches are still very good relative to Longines, Lemania, Omega, Cyma and Eterna, etc, condition-wise. Very likely the IWC watches were given to intelligence officers not involved in combats or jungle-warfare.

Cyma and Longines built their watches just like a tank with a huge 38mm case excluding winding-crown. Gents watches of that era were usually only 32mm in size, which is termed as boy-size, nowadays.

WWW watches are really masculine-looking and difficult to fault. Anything less than an IWC, as long as it comes with a stainless-steel case or a clean chromium-plated case is worth collecting, provided they retain their factory-specs and the dial has not undergone any form of cosmetic surgery.

All the military watches (WWW) were manufactured under the stringent guide-lines of the British Government, to include high visibility white sold numerals, subsidiary seconds hand, luminous dots, hour and minute hands. Accuracy was expected to be within the tolerance of plus/minus ten seconds per day. Last but not least, such a watch has to be extremely reliable. The movement of those military watches will last virtually forever, provided it is well maintained and loved by collectors, today. When it comes to producing a watch with precision to time the Olympic Games, reliability to save lives and durability that will last virtually forever, leave it to the Swiss. Just try to imagine a world without Switzerland.

The ‘spring bars’ of a military watch are of rigid steel and not the hollow spring bars which are considered flimsy and will easily snap, though widely used in ordinary watches. This fixed steel ‘spring bars’ will guarantee, during combat or under any rigorous conditions, the watch would still remain on the wearer’s wrist. In short, the watch had to withstand rough treatments, daily. The robust quality built into a military watch was expected to surpass that of any sports or dress watch, to say the least.

Collectors of military watches are lucky, the bulky case of this watch was never made in solid gold. Had it been so, virtually all the military watch cases would have been in the furnace of the gold-smiths by now, or as soon as the war was over.

Forget about trying to collect military watches from the future Third World War (if ever there is one), since by then the military watches will no more become a classic because they will be made of plastic, just like the cars of today.

As far as I can remember, the following manufacturers produced WWW military watches for the British Government: IWC, Omega, Eterna, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Cyma and Timor. There may be a few more other producers which I just cannot now recall. I have yet to see a Rolex or Patek Philippe military watch with the WWW markings. If there is any, it must have escaped my attention.

In the 50′s and early 60′s, the Universal Geneve Polerouter watch caused quite a sensation because of its micro-rotor 28 jewel automatic movement with shock-absorbers on both balance and escape wheels. Despite its small rotor and a special mainspring, the watch is capable of running for 60 hours. The early Polerouter watch was designed to be be resistant to shocks, water, corrosion, climatic changes and magnetic fields which is a very important feature when flying over the North Pole.

This model was designed in the mid-50′s to accompany the pilots of the Scandinavian Air Service Flight Support on their historic flights over the North Pole. On the outside of the back-cover, there is an imprint of the Polerouter logo. It became the official watch of the Scandinavian Air System.

Though I have only owned one Universal Geneve Polerouter in stainless-steel, a friend of mine owns one in beautiful 18k solid pink gold which is extremely rare compared to ones in 18k solid yellow gold or the gold-capped ones. Ones in excellent factory-original condition are sought-after by vintage-watch collectors.

Collectible watches of the 40′s through to the 70′s found on the market, generally do not come with a box, warranty papers and also, an original purchase receipt. More than 40 years ago, buyers of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Omega, Longines and several others, did not realize that one day, their watches would become a collector’s dream. A collector’s dream with its original box and also, all papers would fetch a handsome price, today.

If those top-end watches do not come with its original box and papers, there is a very slim chance the medium and low-end watches would come complete with those ‘accessories’. Several years ago, people bought a watch, whether a Patek Philippe or a Cyma to wear but today, people buy a watch not only to wear but to keep, too.

Recently, on the market was a virtually unknown brand-name, Wyler and surprisingly, it comes with its original leather-band and buckle, original box (outer box, too), and warranty card, though missing is its original purchase receipt. As a result of this, the watch was sold at a relatively good price, since not many people have ever come across the name, Wyler.

Some years ago, before the Japanese watches swarmed the world market, virtually all watches come from Switzerland, and with truly Swiss produced parts.

In showrooms throughout Singapore, a paradise for watches of any brand-name, and I have reason to believe elsewhere too, if one were to throw a stone into the air, it will land on a Swiss watch. However, the same cannot be said of today. Most of the lesser known Swiss watches are replaced by Seiko, Citizen and Casio, etc, from Japan.

Watches like Patek Philippe and Rolex are just like Mercedes Benz and they will stay with us, as long people still go after absolute Swiss precision and 100% Swiss-made parts cum quality and prestigious brand-names.

Had it not been for Swatch, names like Omega, Longines and Cyma, etc, would totally disappear from the environment, as well. There are also other giant multi-national corporations that save several other Swiss brand names like Zenith, Breguet and Girard Perregaux, etc. Had it not been for these saviors, very likely there will only be a handful of brand-names that can genuinely be called ‘Made in Switzerland’ or ‘Swiss Made’.

Big corporations capitalize on the established names of some of these Swiss watches and their main focus is to generate income and create employment. As a result of which, less than half of the watch parts are made in third-world countries and brought back to Switzerland for assembly. After that, these watches are labeled as ‘Swiss Made’. Taking this into account most collectors prefer to hunt, for example Omega, Longines and Cyma that come with their original in-house movements rather than those that come with ETA ones. It is not contended ETA movements are of lesser quality. However, watch collectors and enthusiasts still prefer watches that come with an in-house movement to wear or to be kept amongst their collections.

Usually those Swiss watches with a lesser-known name did not have their own factories and most of their watch cases were made of alloy and chrome-plated. As a result of which, after some years the plating would peel off, thus making a watch with a quality movement to look cheap. Of course, watches like Titus, Titoni, Silvana and Owix, etc, do not carry much weight in terms of desirability as a collector’s time-piece. However for nostalgic reason and good old days sake, I am sure there will still be collectors who to want to keep these lesser known brand-names, in the event they come across one in mint or NOS condition. Unfortunately, those watches that fall under this category, if found will come with a badly refurbished dial.

Undoubtedly, this is a very handsome watch made by Rolex in 1945. It is an oyster tonneau-shaped water-resistant case (during that time, the term ‘water-proof’ was used).

The date of the month is shown in a window instead of on the minute-track, as found in many other watches of that era.

It is interesting to note, the coveted title of Chronometre states ‘OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED CHRONOMETRE’ and this description is also used till the first Rolex Day-date, model reference 6511. From 6611 on, it becomes ‘SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETRE OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED’.

For some strange reason, the word ‘DATEJUST’ is not printed on the dial.

Nowadays, rarely will one come across an original and good condition reference 4467, and if there is one, the asking price appears to be high but it will still be snatched-up by collectors. The price of those with a reconditioned dial drops, drastically. This watch is widely known as ‘big bubble-back’ or ‘Ovettone’ by the Italians. In the 40′s this reference number was the top of the range model for Rolex. To most collectors the shaped and design of this watch is more attractive than models that followed, even though the change is only subtle.

I find the Rolex Day-date a very attractive and practical watch for people who want to know the time, day and date, at a glance. While earlier on, there are other makes that show the day of the week and date of the month, Rolex stands out, since the day is spelt in full, while the date is magnified.

The first Rolex Day-date appeared in 1956 known as model reference 6511 and it caused a sensation. It was claimed that the day and date would change at midnight, instantaneously at camera-shutter speed. Unfortunately it was not so, due to its mechanism design error. It was subsequently rectified and out came model reference 6611, followed by the model reference 1803.

Whether it is the 6511 or the latest Day-date, it is something I really like, even though it is not high on the collectors’ list, compared to the early Rolex Date-just. Despite this, the good ones do not come cheap. In view of the popularity of both these models, there are many fakes and reproductions, as well as Frankens, around. It is advisable to check and double check for their authenticity, before you part with your money.

In certain parts of this world, the Rolex Day-date is nicknamed, either Rolex President or Rolex King. Surely it is, in view of its popularity and the number of pieces that had been produced, since 1956 till today.

After one has acquired a ‘new’ vintage-watch, one is always dying to put the watch on one’s wrist daily. It is a good idea, if the person wearing the watch is careful. Otherwise, the watch will suffer lots of scratches and other forms of damage. It is likened to driving a vintage-car daily, in congested traffic along the route to work and one minor knock is enough to make you cry for a life-time.

Ideally, a precious watch should be worn only in the evenings, after work or on weekends when you meet fellow-lovers, exchanging facts and figures about vintage-watches.

For a watch to be worn while your mind is preoccupied elsewhere, it is advisable to get a cheaper vintage-watch, so in case it is damaged, the cost of repair will be minimal and the ‘ouch’ or ‘O my God!’ exclamation will not be so loud. Needless to say, no lover of a vintage-watch will want to wear a current model watch, whether it is cheap or not, or even given to him for free.

Generally, not many people would like to wear their vintage-watch under a long-sleeve, though this exercise will protect the watch from knocks and scratches. Once the watch is covered by the sleeve, the wearer cannot glance the beauty of their watch, several times every one minute. By wearing a short-sleeve shirt, a vintage-watch collector can share their ‘darling’ with others, too. This is not a bad idea for vintage-watch lovers to spread the ‘disease’ around.

What is an expensive vintage-watch to keep and wear once a week and what is a cheap one to buy as a daily wearer is always not easy to answer. It all depends on one’s budget.

For example, a very well-to do person may want to buy a Patek Philippe for week-end wear, in view of its investment potential, while wearing an Omega or Longines, as his daily wearer. Another may think his Omega Seamaster is expensive enough, as investment piece and it should not be damaged or scratched and his daily wearer may just be a simple watch, even like an attractive Titus but still an old one, too.

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It is rather perplexing to observe that vintage military watches come in different sizes, from 32 mm to 38mm, both measurements are without their winding-crown.

During World War II in the 40′s, WWW watches ordered by the British Government for their army personnel use were 35mm to 38mm, in size. The US ordered watches for their military use in the Vietnam War of the 60′s, generally came in size 32mm. This size is widely known as boy’s size, while their military men were as huge as that of the British.

Virtually all the WWW watches were produced in Switzerland and only a few in the US and Britain, while the US military watches for the Vietnam War were mainly produced by Bulova, USA.

Most likely, it was because labor cost in the US is high and furthermore, the cost of raw materials has gone up in price, since the WW II era. Apart from this, I cannot see any other reason for the military watches to shrink in size, from 38mm down to 32mm. Whatever, military watches are collectible for their historical-value, rather than their size or diameter.

This is a million-dollar question and there is no easy answer to it. Ask this question to ten different people and chances are, we will get twenty different answers, and not just only one. There will never be one answer to this question.

Basically, it all depends on you and also, the rarity of that particular watch, irrespective of brand-name. The value of a watch lies in what the potential buyer (it could be you or another party) is willing to pay.

Again, talking about potential buyer, potential buyers can be compartmentalized into various categories. They are: a genuine collector or ‘crazy collector’, a collector who claimed to be one but actually not, a speculator or short term investor, an investor who believes a good watch will double in price, every seven years.

Usually, the rare pieces and those in high demand may double in price within a period shorter than seven years, provided there is no global recession crisis. Lastly, we have the dealers and this category of people were absent in the good old days.

A genuine or crazy collector will pay any price for a particular watch he likes and not worried regarding its resale value, since in his mind he will keep the watch, forever. A dealer will pay least for the same watch, since he has his overheads to maintain and buying and selling is his bread and butter. So, whose price are you going to use as an indicator of what you will pay for the same watch?

I can still remember, I approached a good friend of mine, a top authorized Rolex dealer in Orchard Road, some time in the early 80′s. He is financially well-off and I knew, whatever ‘old watch’ I could lay my hands on could easily be bought by him, so I did not have to borrow money. I insisted that he put a counter in his shop to display ‘old watches’ or open another shop to sell only ‘second-hand watches’. He got a rude shock of his life. ‘Who is going to buy those old watches, when new watches come with a one-year warranty. Furthermore, new watches are cheap, though second-hand watches are cheaper but nobody will buy one, since in the event it requires spare parts, it would not be easy to find one.’

For that time, his statement was true but not today! The shopping center where my friend is, had no shop selling ‘second-hand’ watches in the 80′s but in the early 90′s, virtually everyone with money albeit without the basic knowledge of ‘vintage-watches’ were rushing to open a joint.

I am going to touch only on the topic of a genuine collector. Years ago, when there was no such a thing termed as market-value for an old watch. People collected watches for the sake of collecting because they loved the watches they came across. They had no idea, one day those watches would increase in price. A genuine collector would pay any price for a watch that attracts him. Whether he would lose or make money, in the event he wanted to sell it subsequently, is never a criteria for consideration. He would only sell it, in case he did not have enough money to pick another watch which attracted him more. The moment, he started to think whether or not he would lose or make money, his claim of being watch-collector is dicey. We shall then move him into the next compartment of a speculator or short-term investor. Of course, there are some genuine collectors who think they would not want to lose money, in the event they decide to upgrade.

No comment, regarding speculators, investors and dealers, since I had never had the experience to become one.

Generally, no one will lose money on a good vintage-watch that is factory original in all respect, especially its dial which should never ever be reconditioned, refreshed, refinished, redone, refurbished or whatever adjective you use. It is one thing a genuine collector will avoid. Most collectors would rather go for a watch with a very aged dial, rather than one that had gone under the knife.

A genuinely mint condition watch is not easy to come by today, unless it is a Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet, meant to be owned but not meant to be worn daily, unlike those not so mighty brand-names.

For the same model and all denominators being equal, a stainless-steel watch is cheapest, followed by a gold-capped one and then the solid gold piece. However do bear in mind, in the case of a Patek Philippe, one in stainless-steel may even be more expensive than a solid gold piece, in view of it scarcity, while a Rolex, Omega or Longines in stainless-steel is generally cheaper than ones in solid gold.

Talking about solid gold, the yellow is cheapest compare to ones in white or pink gold. Again, scarcity comes into the picture. Some years ago, watches in solid white or pink gold were not popular relative to the yellow ones. As a result of which, watch manufacturers produced a small number of watches in white or pink gold, so as to meet the demand of a limited market. However, collectors are finding those scarce ones more desirable as a collectible timepiece, today.

With regard to gold-capped ones, the same principle applies. Yellow gold-capped watches are very common, while ones that come in pink gold-capped are rare. Rarest of all is a watch with white gold-capping, since there is not much difference in terms of looks, between a white gold-capped piece and that of a stainless-steel. There is only a subtle difference and it is not easy to tell them apart.

Most collectors will pay a good price for a watch that is original in every respect and of course, one in mint condition commands an incredible price, for example the watch below which has some complications in it.

It is surprising to note, there are many young executives who are going after vintage-watches, today. It is a healthy sign that the vintage-watch market is ever-growing.

Generally, when someone is shown a vintage-watch, he will first comment of the watch dial and its hour markers, as well as, hands. Then he will scrutinize the case and marvel at its beautiful four lugs. Very seldom, if ever, will one comment on the winding-crown of a watch. Last of all, after commenting on all those areas, missing on the winding-crown, he may ask for the age of the watch.

‘It is a lovely vintage-watch and you are lucky to own one.’ More or less, that would be the end of the appreciation of a vintage-watch. Some may even go further, touching on other aspects like its movement, etc but occasionally only regarding the beauty of the winding-crown.

So far, I have not come across anyone who looks closely at the winding-crown of a vintage watch. It is assumed the winding-crown has to be there to wind the watch. It will be good to note that some of the brand names give a lot of thought when it comes to the design of the winding-crown that goes with the watch. It is just unfortunate and regretted, there are not many admirers who can appreciate the beauty of the winding-crown that comes with the watch.

The following are some of the examples of beautiful winding-crowns that go unnoticed. It will be very satisfying to observe the beauty of the winding-crown of a watch, too.

Many people come to the conclusion, a yellow color winding-crown of watch is solid gold. It is not so and from my personal experience and exposure, only Patek Philippe produce 18k solid gold winding-crowns. For that matter, anything in yellow from Patek Philippe is always solid gold. The illustrated winding-crown of a Patek Philippe watch is already highly collectible, even without the watch. It is just so beautiful and it is sad, such a classic and out of this world design is discontinued.

The double ‘P’ Patek Philippe winding-crown in 18k solid gold is reproduced with the kind permission of DeMesy Fine Watches of DeMesy & Company, LTD, Dallas, TX 75201, USA.